| The author has been writing her
Unwrecked
England column for The Oldie since its launch in 1992. Her new book
gathers together one hundred of her favourite places. Here she tells us
more about the book and why these places are special.
I am the archetypal Anglophile and
remain, like Ruskin, ever faithful to ‘blind, tormented, unwearied, marvellous
England’. For me it is the most beautiful country in the world. It is also
the most geologically complicated and in consequence provides an inimitable
palette of constantly shifting colours: the shades of buff or red brick,
or the depth of gold in the limestone, vary from one village to the next.
The cob and thatch country of deep-valleyed Devon is a world apart from
the wide-skied marshes of pebbled and pantiled Norfolk, as are the lush
Cornish ‘hedges’, thick with bluebells, stitchwort and campion, from the
bleak curlew-haunted heights of the Yorkshire moors. The wildly differing
local building styles serve as a wonderful gallery of England’s unsung
craftsmen. My book includes places in every county, for it would be
impossible to do England justice
without displaying the fierce local pride of each.
Apart from a handful
of showstoppers such as Ely Cathedral in the Fens and Cragside in Northumberland,
I do not dwell on perfectly preserved places but more on ordinary England,
often battered around the edges and interwoven with modern development.
I think we have become impossibly snobbish in seeking out some sort of
conservation ideal. From time immemorial, cities, towns and villages have
evolved, and new houses have been built among the old and around the edges.
Council houses once derided by aesthetes are now an established part of
our towns and villages. Some Sixties housing estates have settled over
time, grown trees and developed idiosyncrasies. It is the spirit of a particular
place which moves me, not so much the fine quality of its architecture.
Stanhope, for instance, is not a pretty town, it is a strong-feeling one.
Richard Ingrams created
this column for me seventeen years ago. He was actually paying me to indulge
in my favourite pastime – exploring England. Inextricably woven through
my childhood, the thrill of the journey and the possibility of finding
some unknown wonder or half-remembered place is always with me. My mother’s
love of the landscape, as well as of pre-history – barrows, earthworks,
stone circles and cromlechs – became part of me. My earliest memories are
of riding along the Berkshire Ridgeway, sometimes for a few days at a time,
and diverting to places like Ashdown, stranded in the downs, and White
Horse Hill, ever top of the list.
Early car journeys
with my parents were drawn-out affairs and my father John Betjeman’s love
of place and of what he described as ‘indeterminate beauty’ meant that
we stopped in nearly every town or village along the way to look at churches,
houses and peculiar things. The ivy-clad entrance to the Sapperton Canal
tunnel remains a top place for me and it would be hard to forget being
led by the hand into the cool, calm beauty of the tiny church of Winterborne
Tomson in Dorset. This quest for the romance of England has never faded
and, too lazy to walk, I have found half the places in this book by horse,
approaching them from unadopted tracks which have often brought me to unfamiliar
views.
Tourists may find perfection
in Castle Combe and Chipping Campden, but I prefer places which are off
the beaten track. Even within earshot of a motorway’s constant moan or
a mere stone’s throw from a gigantic conurbation such as Aylesbury or Middlesborough,
as long as one is going at a leisurely pace, there are still beautiful
bits of ‘unwearied, marvellous England’ to be found. Though the pastoral
idyll conjured up by Brian Cook posters and Helen Allingham water colours
never really existed, I am more than happy with what is here and never
stop being surprised at how wonderful England is. I hope this book shows
that.
Unwrecked England
by Candida Lycett Green
Hardback, 224 pages,
10.5 x 10 inches, full colour photos of every location and woodcuts by
John O’Connor. £25
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